How to Wrap Arborvitae with Burlap: Step-by-Step

Introduction

Arborvitae can look bulletproof all summer… then come out of winter with brown, crispy patches—usually on the windward or sunny side. The main culprit is winter desiccation (“winter burn”): needles keep losing moisture, but frozen soil prevents roots from replacing it. Cornell Cooperative Extension notes that “considerable water loss can occur on windy or sunny winter days.”

This guide walks you through how to wrap arborvitae with burlap the way it’s meant to be done: breathable, supported, and timed right—plus a sizing guide and a quick inspection routine so you’re not redoing it after every storm.

A quick “real-world” pattern: When people say “I wrapped it and it still browned,” the photos almost always show burlap touching foliage or a wrap that stayed on too long. Fixing spacing + timing is usually the turning point.

Why Wrap Arborvitae With Burlap

Burlap helps because it’s breathable and works as a wind/sun screen—reducing the drying force that causes winter burn. University of New Hampshire Extension explains that desiccation “can be mitigated by erecting windbreaks made from burlap or canvas attached to frames… on the side of the prevailing winds.”

What burlap does well

• Cuts wind exposure (less drying)
• Softens harsh winter sun (less scorch)
• Helps new plantings, exposed corners, and narrow hedges survive tough weeks

What burlap won’t fix

• Dry soil going into winter (you still need fall watering)
• Salt spray unless you block splash
• Root problems or a bad planting location

Common Winter Damage Signs to Watch

• Browning/bronzing on the side facing prevailing winds
• Crispy tips on the outer shell of the hedge
• Patchy burn on south/west exposure (sun + wind combo)

When to Wrap: Timing That Prevents Problems

The safest approach is set the supports early, add burlap later.

Michigan State University Extension recommends: “Install the posts in October before the ground freezes.” Then “Pick a calm day in November or December to add the layer of burlap.”

A practical timing rhythm

• Stake/posts: fall, while soil is workable
• Burlap on: once the shrub is dormant and the windy/sunny freeze pattern starts
• Burlap off: early to mid-spring when conditions moderate (see removal notes below)

Local Microclimate Checklist

You’re more likely to benefit from wrapping if you have:

• Wind tunnels between buildings / along open driveways
• South/west exposure (strong winter sun)
• Road/driveway salt splash zone
• Newly planted arborvitae (first 1–2 winters are often the hardest)

Materials Checklist: What You Need (and What to Avoid)

You want a breathable barrier + a frame that keeps it off the foliage.

Get

• Breathable burlap (avoid plastic-coated burlap)
• Stakes/posts (wood, bamboo, fiberglass, or sturdy garden posts)
• Jute twine / soft ties (won’t cut in)
• Staple gun (for burlap-to-wood stake) or zip ties (to the frame)

Avoid

• Black plastic or tight plastic wrap. UNH Extension warns: “never use black plastic as it causes extreme temperature fluctuations.”
• Tight wire around stems (girdling risk)
• Wrapping burlap directly against foliage (abrasion + trapped ice)

Pro Procurement Note for Teams

If you’re winterizing multiple sites, build a simple standard kit so crews don’t improvise:

• Burlap roll(s) with known width
• Posts/stakes in consistent lengths
• Twine + fasteners

For purchasing managers and contractors, one-stop sourcing can reduce seasonal scramble. Wellco Industries supplies a broad range of agricultural and soil/water conservation products—useful when bundling seasonal site materials with other recurring needs (kept as a value-add, not a hard sell).

Step-by-Step: How to Wrap Arborvitae With Burlap (Supported Screen Method)

Your goal is a breathable screen that blocks wind and sun without touching the plant.

1. Water well before freeze-up
   If fall is dry, deep watering helps the root zone go into winter with a “moisture buffer.” (Think of this as prevention, not rescue.)
2. Install 2–4+ stakes around the plant
   Place stakes outside the foliage so the shrub never rubs the barrier during wind.
3. Create clearance (this is the make-or-break detail)
   Ask Extension guidance: support burlap “about 18 inches away from the plant” so it isn’t touching foliage.
4. Wrap burlap around the stakes, not around branches
   Overlap 4–6 inches and secure at multiple heights so it doesn’t flap.
5. Vent the top; stabilize the bottom
   MSU Extension’s windscreen summary includes: “Make sure the top is open” and snug the bottom into mulch for stability.
6. Do a quick storm-proof tie-down
   Add one extra tie at mid-height on the windward side—this prevents the “sail effect” that loosens wraps.

Mini Sizing Guide (Rule of Thumb)

• Up to ~3 ft tall: 3 stakes can work, but 4 is sturdier in windy sites
• 3–6 ft: 4 stakes minimum; add a 5th stake on the windward side if you get gusts
• Tall hedge runs: treat it like a fence—posts every 3–4 feet, burlap attached to the line

(These are practical starting points; increase support if the wrap flaps or leans.)

Inspection Routine (30 seconds)

• After heavy wind/snow: check that burlap isn’t touching foliage and ties are still snug
• Mid-winter thaw: confirm the top opening is still vented
• Early spring: plan removal so you don’t accidentally “leave it on until May”

Extra Protection Options (When Burlap Alone Isn’t Enough)

Burlap mainly handles wind/sun. If your site has other stressors, add one of these.

Mulch the root zone (helps moisture + temperature stability)
UNH Extension suggests: “Aim to apply at least two inches of woodchips or straw over the root zone,” and keep it off the trunk.

Anti-desiccant sprays (use carefully)
UNH notes anti-desiccants can help when applied correctly, and mentions many are best applied around 40–50°F with full foliage coverage—plus waiting until plants are dormant.

Salt splash defense

• Put the burlap screen between plant and pavement (not wrapped tight to the shrub)
• In spring thaws, gently rinse the soil splash zone if salt exposure is obvious

Safety & Plant Health Considerations

• Rodent shelter risk: If burlap touches foliage, it can create “an attractive sheltered area for small animals” that may damage the plant.
• Moisture/ice trapping: Contact with the plant can keep “too much moisture, ice and salt” against foliage—another reason clearance matters.
• Don’t girdle: never tie wire tightly around stems/trunk
• Skip wrapping sick plants: if the shrub is already declining from root issues, fix the underlying problem first (drainage, watering, planting depth)

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Mistake: burlap touching the shrub
Fix: rebuild as a supported screen with real clearance (use the ~18-inch guideline).

Mistake: putting it on too early / leaving it on too late
Ask Extension warns wraps “should not be put on too early, or left on too late,” and notes burlap should have been removed in mid-March in their example year.

Mistake: using black plastic
Fix: switch to breathable burlap; black plastic drives damaging temperature swings.

Mistake: “one tie and done”
Fix: secure at multiple heights; flapping is more than annoying—it can abrade foliage and loosen the whole setup.

Conclusion

Wrapping works best when you treat it like a simple system: (1) moisture in the soil, (2) a breathable windscreen with clearance, (3) smart timing for install and removal. The whole point is to reduce moisture loss during the exact conditions Cornell describes—sunny or windy winter days when roots can’t pull water from frozen soil.

If you manage multiple sites, standardize your wrap kit and your crew checklist (clearance, open top, multi-point ties, mid-spring removal). That’s how you turn “winter protection” from a yearly gamble into a repeatable process.

Frequently Asked Questions